Boat trip with the Malène boatmen in the Détroits of the Gorges du Tarn Thomas takes you on a boat trip down the Gorges du Tarn with Les Bateliers des Gorges du Tarn. In the heart of this Grand Site, discover the history of the Gorges du Tarn, the fauna, the flora, the anecdotes… along the water in an idyllic setting. Ideal for nature lovers and discovery enthusiasts! Departing from the charming village of La Malène, Thomas will take you on a 1-hour, 8 km trip to the Cirque des Baumes… and off you go!
The boat ride down.A must during your vacation
The sky is blue and the emerald Tarn ripples merrily through the two great cliffs that encircle it. What better way to discover the Gorges du Tarn than to take a boat trip with a guide who knows the area like the back of his hand?
We climb into the boat with Thomas, a year-round boatman for several years. This young native, son and grandson of a boatman, is proud to have taken up the baton by working for Bateliers des Gorges du Tarn. The company has been serving tourists since 1875. The boatmen are still emblematic figures of the Gorges, and previous generations have succeeded in perpetuating their passion and know-how to young people who are now taking over. Our boat follows that of Fantine, who has been a boatman for several years.
Couples canoe down the river.
Discover the Gorges du Tarn in a family boat in autumnThe boatmen and women of the Gorges du Tarn are passionate about their craft – they’re even said to know the Gorges best! The team of boatmen is made up of men and women.
The Tarn Gorges
Right from the start of the visit, visitors are amazed by the landscape: the cliffs above us offer shapes like no other, with the crystal-clear water of the Tarn completing the picture. I then explain how the gorges were formed, and why the rocks on the cliffs sometimes take on such unusual appearances.
I also explain that over the 53 km of the Gorges du Tarn, 40 resurgences from springs provide half the volume of the river’s water, tempering the water to 20° in summer: this is very important for trout, which can’t stand water that’s too hot. During our visit, we catch a glimpse of pretty grey wagtails and diving ducks at the river’s edge, while majestic griffon vultures circle over the cliffs. Some of the more reasonably-sized inhabitants are less discreet: the aptly-named howler frog astonishes us with its raucous cry. It seems that otters are once again populating the crystal-clear waters of the river … as are beavers, who leave numerous tracks on the banks. The astonishing “ long-leaved butterwort “, a carnivorous plant with beautiful purple flowers, completes the picture.
The Tarn
If all these species inhabit the Gorges, it’s because the Tarn is an exceptionally well-preserved river. From its starting point to here, it has passed through no town except Florac: so, with no industry and few dwellings in its wake, it arrives here almost untouched by pollution. Lozère, nicknamed “the land of 1,000 springs”, boasts 3,000 km of rivers classified as 1st quality for their water: an exceptional rate for this department where nature reigns supreme.
We arrive at the Détroits, my favorite spot: this is the highest and narrowest part of the Gorges, from the riverbank to the top of the cliffs, 500 meters apart. How can you not feel privileged when you know that this picture-postcard view is only accessible from the river?
Canoeing in the Tarn Gorges at "Les DétroitsLa Croze
Continuing our walk on the water, we come to the charming hamlet of La Croze, with its typical architecture: inhabited since the 12th century, it now comes alive during the few summer months. Nature is king here, but since the dawn of time humans have lived in harmony with it. Some of the ” baumes “, caves sheltered by the cliffs, have been inhabited since Neolithic times, and traces of settlements can be found in the heart of the Gorges as far back as the 5th century AD!
La Croze village in autumnI tell them that the road through the Gorges that we’ve taken to get here was only built in 1905… it’s hard to imagine living here with boats as the only means of access and transporting goods! It’s hardly surprising, then, that boatmen have always played a vital role here, and traces of their use can be found as far back as the 6th century.
Bateliers des Gorges du Tarn couple visitBack to La Malène
We enjoy the scenery a little longer before the ride comes to an end … this hour in the company of visitors seemed to last only a moment! Here we are, sailing along the Tarn, to the rhythm of the undulating river. We let it run its course as we dock on a beach, and I let the visitors disembark to catch the mini-bus back to our starting point, images still filling my head, with the desire to do it all over again!
Unlike canoeing, you don’t have to steer the boat, so you can take it easy! However, we’ll give you a few ideas of the essentials to take with you:
Boats depart only from the village of La Malène, the heart of the Gorges du Tarn, with Les Bateliers des Gorges du Tarn.
In summer, it’s best to leave in the morning. You’ll have fewer people on the water, and you’ll be even quieter… for admiring the scenery.
